I am no stranger to a full bust adjustment (FBA). With a C-cup myself, this is my most commonly made pattern adjustment. Once you have done them a few times, it is not that scary. FBA’s can however get a little tricky on bodices with different style lines and princess seams, such as the Canary Cami.
Our patterns are drafted for a C-cup. This means that if difference between your high bust and full bust is more than 7.5cm (3”), you will need to do an FBA. There are some great blog posts which explain how to work out how much you need to add in the FBA so I won’t go into detail here.
I have broken down the steps to achieve a FBA on the Canary Cami below, using a mini-scale pattern so the proportions might seem a little strange.
STEP 1: Mark the seam allowances.
The Canary Cami has 1cm seam allowances included in the pattern.
STEP 2: Match the front notch on the FRONT BODICE with the front notch on the SIDE PANEL.
Tape them together at this point. Mark the bust point with a dot (BP).
Note: You can find your BP by draping the pattern pattern over your bust aligning centre front with your centre. Place a dot over where your nipple sits. This is your bust point.
STEP 3: Draw in the slash lines.
Blue Line A: A diagonal line from the lower armhole to the bust point
Orange Line B: Starting at the bust point, draw a line parallel to the centre front down to the bodice hem
Brown Line C : A line perpendicular to the line B, from the bust point to the centre front
STEP 4: Cut through slash lines
Starting at the bodice hem, cut up line B stopping at the bust point and continue cutting along line A. Stop at the seam allowance (do not cut through the seam allowance).
Snip into the seam allowance from the other side to create a pivot point on the seam line.
Cut along line C.
STEP 5: Open up the bodice and side panel to create more room for your bust
The amount of extra space you worked out for your bust adjustment is the amount opened up along line B (distance x). Ensure that this space is the same distance all the way down to the bodice hem. Secure in place with tape
STEP 6: Separate the side panel from the front bodice
Smooth the lines along the princess seam line.
Both pieces have now been evenly adjusted to create more room for the bust.
A small bust adjustment would be done in a similar way however you would be closing the slash lines rather than opening them. If you would like me to write a post on how to do a SBA, let me know!